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Thursday, January 16, 2025

The Tacky, Comforting Potato Dish Getting Us By January

Why It Works

  • Blooming the spices in sizzling oil amplifies their flavors, leading to a extra scrumptious gratin.
  • Cooking the flour and butter collectively helps take away the flour’s uncooked taste, and prevents the tacky mornay sauce from changing into lumpy.

I grew up in Pakistan, and a family-favorite dish was aloo kee bhujia, a dish of potatoes stir-fried with spices and tomatoes. My mother was at all times fast to show to this minimal-effort dish as a alternative for feeding our household of six, and we regularly loved it as a facet to hefty meat dishes like aloo gosht (a meat and potato curry) and daal gosht (lentils with goat). In India, aloo kee bhujia refers to a spiced combination of gram flour and boiled potatoes which can be riced and deep-fried till crisp. West of the border in Pakistan, nonetheless, aloo kee bhujia is a silky-smooth cooked potato dish that’s meant to be eaten as a meal or as an accompaniment to an even bigger unfold. At the moment, the dish—which has a jammy tomato gravy, loads of warmth from Kashmiri chile powder, and earthiness from cumin—stays a staple in my own residence.

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Not too long ago, I used to be impressed to include a few of aloo kee bhujia’s flavors right into a gratin. Full of cheese, tomatoes, and seasoned with cumin, cayenne, turmeric, chile powder, and smoked paprika, this spiced potato gratin has all the normal elements of aloo kee bhujia however with the signature creaminess of gratin. I begin by sautéing onion and garlic with the spices, add the sliced potatoes and tomatoes, then let all of it simmer till the spuds are tender. Whereas that cooks, I put together the mornay cheese sauce that serves as the bottom of the gratin. Tossed with the potatoes and baked, the gratin is a tacky, comforting dish that’s homey sufficient for a weeknight meal however can be spectacular sufficient for a cocktail party. Right here’s tips on how to make it.

Methods to Make a Scrumptious Spiced Potato Gratin

Attain for good Gruyère. Like most gratins, the flavour of this dish will probably be decided by the standard of the dairy you utilize. I like to recommend utilizing high quality Gruyère, which has a pleasing nuttiness that goes nicely with the spices. It additionally melts simply, making it an important cheese to make use of in a gratin. 

Go arduous on the spices. For a dish that really evokes aloo kee bhujia, I exploit all the identical spices I’d use to arrange the normal Pakistani dish: cumin seeds, cayenne pepper, floor turmeric, Kashmiri chile powder, and smoked paprika. I add the spices as I sauté the onion and garlic, permitting the flavors to bloom and meld within the sizzling oil. As Severe Eats contributor Nik Sharma wrote in his recipe for tadka, warmth can “remodel a number of the taste molecules in spices into new, tastier ones,” leading to “an amplified sensorial expertise that may not in any other case be achieved within the absence of warmth.”

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Be mild with the potatoes. Use a mild hand once you incorporate the potatoes and fold within the cheese sauce. Because the potatoes are partially cooked at this level, dealing with them too aggressively could lead to mashed potatoes—which, whereas scrumptious, isn’t gratin. 

Broil till crisp—however keep watch over the gratin. Top-of-the-line elements of a gratin is the crisp golden brown topping. A short stint beneath the broiler helps simply obtain this, but it surely’s important that you simply keep watch over the gratin, as broilers can differ in power and your gratin can rapidly go from splendidly brown to burned.

It’s not the aloo kee bhujia of my childhood, but it surely’s a enjoyable, scrumptious riff that jogs my memory of house and the meals I grew up on—even once I’m so far-off.

The Tacky, Comforting Potato Dish Getting Us By January



Cook dinner Mode
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  • 1 tablespoon (15ml) impartial oil, resembling vegetable or canola

  • 1 small yellow onion (about 4 ounces; 113g), thinly sliced

  • 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

  • 2 medium cloves garlic (10g), minced

  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

  • 1 teaspoon floor turmeric

  • 1/2 teaspoon floor Kashmiri chile powder

  • 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

  • 1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for desk salt, use half as a lot by quantity

  • 3 medium russet potatoes (1 3/4 kilos; 800g), peeled and reduce into 1/4-inch slices

  • 4 giant ripe plum tomatoes (454g; 16 ounces), reduce into 1-inch items

  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter (1/2 ounce; 14g)

  • 1 tablespoon (8g) all-purpose flour

  • 1 cup (240ml) entire milk

  • 4 ounces Gruyère (120g; about 1 1/2 cups), finely shredded

  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder

  1. Modify oven rack to center place and preheat oven to 350ºF (175ºC.)

  2. In a 12-inch forged iron or stainless-steel skillet, warmth oil over medium warmth till shimmering. Add onions and cumin seeds and cook dinner, stirring typically, till onions are softened and starting to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, cayenne, turmeric, Kashmiri chile powder, smoked paprika, and salt, and cook dinner, stirring often, till aromatic, about 1 minute.

    Severe Eats / Deli Studios


  3. Add potatoes and toss to evenly coat in spices, taking care to separate any slices which can be sticking collectively. Add the tomatoes and stir to mix. Scale back warmth to medium-low and cook dinner, coated, stirring midway by means of, till tomatoes soften and potatoes are cooked by means of and tender, about quarter-hour. Take away from warmth; put aside.

    Severe Eats / Deli Studios


  4. In a small saucepan, soften butter over medium-low warmth. Whisk in flour and cook dinner, stirring, till combination begins to bubble, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in milk steadily and cook dinner, stirring typically, till combination thickens, about 3 minutes. Stir in cheese, permitting it to soften barely, about 1 minute. Add cheese combination to potatoes, gently tossing to evenly coat. Switch to a 8- by 8-inch baking dish, and gently press potatoes into a fair layer then cowl tightly with foil.

    Severe Eats / Deli Studios


  5. Set baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet and bake till potatoes are tender and tomatoes are jammy, about 35 minutes. Take away foil and cook dinner gratin till starting to brown and sauce has thickened, 10 to fifteen minutes. Flip the oven broiler on excessive and return gratin to the oven; cook dinner till the highest is golden brown and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. (Watch gratin carefully as broilers differ tremendously in power and may rapidly burn unattended meals.) Take away from oven and let relaxation for 10 minutes earlier than serving.

    Severe Eats / Deli Studios


Particular Tools

12-inch forged iron or chrome steel skillet, 8- by 8-inch baking dish

Make-Forward and Storage

The gratin might be ready by means of step 4 in the future prematurely. Let cool, cowl, and refrigerate. When able to cook dinner, proceed with step 5 of the recipe.

The completed gratin and leftovers might be refrigerated in an hermetic container for as much as 4 days. Reheat within the microwave or in an oven-proof dish at 400ºF (205ºC) till heated by means of, about 10 minutes.

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