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Friday, January 17, 2025

Tohoku Journey Uncover Japan’s Rugged Coast


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On a latest journey to Japan, a neighborhood informed me, “Tokyo is just not Japan…to know Japan it’s important to exit and discover.” And for those who’ve adopted this weblog for some time, you already know that getting off the overwhelmed monitor and exploring a hidden area places me in my completely satisfied place. It’s my favourite method to journey. After I heard about Japan’s Tohoku area and the brand new Michinoku Coastal Path– I used to be intrigued as a result of I like discovering new long-distance hikes.  Out of the blue, this little-known area in Japan was on my radar.

My journey to Tohoku was initially about mountaineering a portion of the Michinoku Coastal Path. Nevertheless, I quickly found that Tohoku’s rugged coast supplied rather more than a mountaineering journey.  It was a land of resilient folks, unbelievable seafood, and distinctive cultural experiences that I had by no means encountered earlier than. The area’s intimate really feel and the heat of its folks made it a really distinctive vacation spot.

Japan’s Most Lovely Shoreline That You’ve By no means Heard Of

Paradise discovered can be paradise misplaced in tourism.  Overtourism can occur shortly, and it reaches a tipping level, and all of the sudden, you will have too many individuals all going to the identical locations.   Guaranteeing steadiness is essential. That’s why Japanese tourism hopes to create extra steadiness by increase tourism choices in lesser-visited areas like Tohoku.  This is without doubt one of the causes they created the Michinoku Coastal Path, which initially drew me there.  I assume meaning it’s working.

Tohoku, a area recognized among the many Japanese however usually missed by worldwide vacationers, is a hidden gem ready to be found.  With its gorgeous Rias Coast, the one rugged shoreline in Japan, it provides probably the most lovely shoreline within the nation, as acknowledged by Japan’s Tourism Board.  This distinctive magnificence is a testomony to the area’s attract.

Whereas Tokyo and Kyoto stands out as the go-to spots for a lot of guests, Tohoku is a treasure trove ready to be explored by those that search journey and pure magnificence.

Tohoku Map

Since this text focuses on journey to the Tohoku East Coast, I’m specializing in the Miyagi, Iwate, and Aomori Prefectures. The coastal cities in these prefectures had been reachable by native trains and buses. This shoreline is named the Sanriku Coast – a dramatic, rocky shoreline with numerous bays, cliffs and coves that stretches for over 300 kilometers alongside the Pacific Coast of the Tohoku Area.

What Makes Tohoku Journey Distinctive

Tohoku’s rugged shoreline and low variety of vacationers are two of the issues that make touring there so nice.  The third merchandise, although, is a bit distinctive.  Home and worldwide guests go there as a result of the area suffered one among Japan’s most important pure disasters. 

The March 11, 2011, Nice East Japan Earthquake and the following tsunami left a profound mark on the tranquil Tohoku area. Towering waves—some as excessive as 130 ft—surged as much as six miles inland, claiming roughly 20,000 lives and devastating communities. The aftermath of this tragedy required years of effort to clear the rubble and start therapeutic.

Tohoku tsunami wall
A tsunami wall defending the village behind it

Rebuilding Tohoku After the Tsunami

Tsunami warnings tohoku

Over a decade later, they rebuilt (typically relocating) the cities, created new warning methods and constructed extra huge tsunami partitions.  The Michinoku Coastal Path  (MCT) is without doubt one of the newest websites/experiences they made to assist the area rebuild emotionally, carry tourism again to the area, and, in flip, add to the economic system of a distressed space. A 1,000 km mountaineering path means revitalization of your entire shoreline, new motels, eating places, tourism experiences, and a rebuilt rail line to maneuver folks alongside the coast. 

I used to be shocked to be taught that even the visiting Japanese vacationers are involved in studying how the Tohoku area has been rebuilt. They rent tour guides to stroll them by sections of the path alongside the Rias Coast and educate them in regards to the tsunami. They use it as a studying expertise in order that the youthful era is aware of what they need to and shouldn’t do throughout a catastrophe.

As I hiked alongside the MCT I heard tales of adults and kids alike who perished as a result of they had been following incorrect directions from others – regardless that they probably knew higher and will have saved themselves.  This was onerous to listen to – but in addition not stunning.

Japan is taken into account a collective society.  They worth group concord, shared duties, and prioritizing the well-being of the group over particular person needs. There’s a hesitation to behave independently. This worth is deeply embedded in Japanese society, influencing habits, decision-making, and responses to crises. On this case, it price folks their lives.

Tendenko  – A New Cultural Philosophy

The area is now being taught Tendenko. Tendenko is a Japanese idea that emphasizes particular person survival throughout disasters. It teaches that in moments of disaster, folks ought to concentrate on saving themselves with out worrying about others, trusting that everybody will do the identical. This idea has gained prominence within the area’s post-disaster tradition, influencing habits and responses to crises. It’s onerous to vary a tradition, however in all places I went alongside the coast, I heard about Tendenko.  It’s taught in colleges and talked about in houses, and also you’ll additionally find out about it for those who go to the area. 

Tohoku Tsunami Memorials

A number of memorials commemorating the lives misplaced, the aftermath, and the rebuilding course of are dotted alongside the coast.  It brings your entire catastrophe and the impression on the communities to life. You’d be amiss for those who visited the realm and didn’t go to one of many a number of memorials to be taught extra and join with this space extra deeply. They’re lovely and shifting.

I like to recommend the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum in Rikuzentakata Metropolis.  The constructing and grounds are somber however lovely, and the museum and employees had been phenomenal. See a chronological exhibit of artifacts and pictures documenting the catastrophe, and listen to guides speak about their private expertise on that fateful day. It additionally contains a big out of doors house the place you’ll be able to stroll and ruminate on the facility of nature.  It’s also the house to the Miracle Lone Pine Tree – an homage to the one surviving tree of your entire Takata Pine Forest.  It serves as an emblem of hope for your entire area.

The area has additionally chosen to honor the reminiscence of the day by leaving a number of buildings as they had been – mangled, twisted, and in rubble. As well as, as you journey across the space, you’ll additionally see excessive water traces marked on buildings.  These markings function a grim reminder of the catastrophe’s scale and the acute water ranges reached.

Discovering a Journey Connection in Catastrophe

I do know this will likely not appear to be a typical place to journey to – however that’s why I cherished it.  In reality – I felt nearer to the Tohoku area than every other in Japan as I traveled up the coast.  I had heard in regards to the tsunami in 2011. Nonetheless, I didn’t absolutely perceive it till I noticed and skilled the area myself. It was academic and shifting, drawing me nearer to Japan usually.

That is no totally different than different in style journey locations -Hiroshima, Katrina Excursions, the ruins of Pompeii, and Chernobyl. That is all thought of Catastrophe tourism – a subsection of Darkish tourism (Killing Fields in Cambodia, 9/11 Memorial and Museum, Brazil slum tourism, Auschwitz-Birkenau, and so forth) .  If it’s not for you, I perceive. I deal with it as a method to be taught extra in regards to the folks and tradition and take learnings from it that have an effect on how I take a look at and join with the world as an entire.

Tohoku Coast Experiences To not Miss

Not the whole lot in Tohoku is in regards to the catastrophe – it’s only a small however significant a part of the area.  There are nice conventional journey adventures and cultural experiences available alongside the coast!  As I hiked a few of the finest components of the Michinoku Coastal Path, we additionally had an opportunity to expertise different actions alongside the Tohoku coast. 
Tohoku journey offers one thing for anybody who enjoys the outside

Jodogahama Kayaking

Jodogahama Seashore is a must-stop in your Tohoku coastal travels.  It’s a part of the Sanriku Fukko (reconstruction) Nationwide Park  , which was created after the Nice East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami as a approach to assist revitalize the area.

Cease on the Jodogahama customer heart, stroll the pathways alongside the seashore, and luxuriate in this scenic space.  It’s best recognized for its uncommon white rock formations; jagged volcanic rocks jutting out of the turquoise waters.  The white pebble seashore is in style for locals to sunbathe and swim.  I went kayaking in order that I may get a better take a look at the rock formations. You possibly can simply lease kayaks and SUPs and even go on a coastal boat journey from the seashore.  And, in fact – there’s loads of mountaineering across the seashore and customer heart.  In reality, the MCT path goes proper alongside the seashore!

Deal with your self and keep on the completely positioned, luxurious Jodogahama Park Resort.  Perched on high of the cliff above Miyako Bay, you will get an unbelievable view of the rocks and the seashore under. The lodging are conventional and smooth, the meals is scrumptious, and the onsen is the cherry on high! This was my favourite resort throughout my time on the Tohoku Coast!

Eat at L’Oreole Tanohata

Chef Katsuyasu Ito
Chef Katsuyasu Ito

Chef Katsuyasu Ito, a French-trained chef who went to culinary college in Tokyo, is bringing superb eating to the Tohoku Coast at L’Oreole Tanohata. Positioned proper on the Michinoku Coastal Path, the fantastically designed restaurant with all wooden accents is perched on the coast, giving it unbelievable views and a rugged really feel.

Watching Chef Ito create our multi-course lunch was like watching an artist at work.  I like open kitchens and I had a lot enjoyable watching the cooking and plating of every intricate regionally sourced dish.  Chef Ito desires to coach guests and locals in regards to the abundance of unbelievable meals that comes from this area.  Every thing he makes is regionally sourced.  He additionally works with the native college lunch program, educating youngsters on the area’s components.

“If I need to be wealthy and generate income, then I’d construct a restaurant in one of many large cities. However that’s not the explanation why I need to prepare dinner. I need to assist the group and produce folks right here.”

Most of his company come from out of city and keep to benefit from the wealthy bounty of the Tohoku Coast. One of many chef’s targets is to guard the smaller communities in Japan as a result of, as he famous,  everybody normally leaves and strikes to large cities.

Like a “three-star restaurant” in a small European village, you’ll be able to get pleasure from a meal that makes probably the most of native assets, together with the view from the window!

Make dinner or lunch reservations at L’Oreole Tanohata.

Glamping on the Tanesashi Coast

Go to sleep below the celebs and get up to crashing waves.  The Tanesashi Pure Garden is a uncommon coastal grassland the place lush inexperienced grass grows naturally proper as much as the sting of the Pacific Ocean. This mix of vibrant inexperienced fields and the deep blue sea creates a panoramic, nearly surreal panorama. The garden is dotted with tents within the evenings as individuals are allowed to camp there. 

You possibly can expertise tenting amongst different out of doors lovers whereas additionally having fun with a little bit of pampering! Glamping experiences are additionally supplied right here, full with a snug, heat cot and bedding and a chef who makes dinner and breakfast for you on the garden!
Be taught extra about reserving your tent right here.

Ebiking in Rikuzentakata Metropolis

This metropolis was rebuilt after the tsunami and pushed again from the coast.  Nevertheless, they didn’t simply push it again; they created it on increased floor. Primarily they created a disaster-resistant city by elevating the peak of the land they constructed on and shifting the residences to increased floor.  The town and area had been one of many hardest hit alongside the coast.

Hire a bicycle or take part in a motorbike tour that may be organized on the Rikuzentakata Bussan Heart related to the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum. It’s an effective way to get round this bike-friendly area.  The tour will take you round a few of the tsunami destruction, however you’ll additionally cycle out into the countryside by quiet rice fields and out to the scenic coast.

biking tohoku

Kessenuma Brewers Desk Sake Tasting Dinner

Take pleasure in a novel pairing dinner the place company can be taught in regards to the sake, native seasonal meals, and seafood. Style dishes made with seafood caught in Kesennuma. Every dish is accompanied by a number of native sake from Otokoyama Honten, a neighborhood sake brewery, for a pairing distinctive to Kesennuma. You possibly can determine to have the tasting dinner or dinner and an added tour of the sake brewery.

Kessenuma Bay
The restaurant seems to be out on Kessenuma Bay

Tohoku Coast Excursions

Suppose I’ve swayed you to contemplate visiting the Tohoku coast, and you might be on the lookout for somebody to do the entire planning for you. In that case, you’ll need to take a look at a few of these excursions within the area.

Ottsworld Small Group Mountain climbing Tour

I’ve put many of those experiences into my small group tour that takes you alongside the highlights of the Michinoku Coastal Path.  Meet locals, be taught in regards to the tsunami, and actively discover the attractive  Tohoku shoreline.

Ottsworld small group tour Tohoku Japan
Be a part of me in Tohoku in 2025!

Oku Japan Self-Guided Mountain climbing Tour

This primarily covers the northern a part of the Tohoku coast and sticks primarily to mountaineering the Michinoku Coastal Path.  Nevertheless it contains most of the areas I lined above.  They’ve curated one of the best components of this path, permitting you to stroll by probably the most memorable areas earlier than persevering with onto the following part through practice, bus, and taxi.
Oku 7 Day Self Guided Mountain climbing Tour
Ottsworld Low cost –get 5% off any Oku Japan tour with code OTTSWORLD5

Tohoku Emotion Prepare Tour

If mountaineering isn’t your jam, take a look at this each day practice tour alongside the Sanriku Coast.  TOHOKU EMOTION runs on the Hachinohe Line (Hachinohe Station to Kuji Station), which runs proper alongside the coast. The practice slows down on the most scenic spots in order that passengers can absolutely admire the surroundings.  However better of all is, this can be a foodie practice.  This restaurant practice options an open kitchen the place you’ll be able to even watch the meals being ready. Take pleasure in a menu that includes native Tohoku meals whereas having fun with the coastal views.
Reserve a spot on Tohoku Emotion Prepare Tour

Tohoku Emotion
Tohoku Emotion Prepare

The way to Get to Tohoku

The simplest method to get to numerous components of Tohoku is by practice. The Shinkansen (bullet practice) is my beneficial approach of touring from Tokyo. You will get a regional rail go that provides limitless journey within the Tohoku area on designated trains. The JR East Cross contains Tokyo, the Tohoku area, and surrounding areas.

The JR East Cross provides limitless rides on JR buses and trains touring on the JR traces Tohoku together with the Tohoku Shinkansen.

Try your choices for the JR East Cross or Complete Japan passes for those who plan to journey to different areas.

JR East Rail Pass

Sendai metropolis in Miyagi prefecture is taken into account the key gateway to the Tohoku area. It provides simple connections to coastal cities through practice or bus. It takes lower than 2 hours to get from Tokyo to Sendai. When you attain a serious metropolis like Sendai, you need to use native trains or buses to entry smaller coastal cities alongside the shoreline

The Most Highly effective Wave in Tohoku

Probably the most impactful cultural experiences I skilled in Tohoku was the ‘Tokhoku wave.’  This wave has completely nothing to do with the tsunami; it’s a easy wave goodbye.  In Tohoku, it’s a cultural certainty that the resort employees will come outdoors and wave goodbye to you.  Not solely the motels however the tour guides, customer heart staff, restaurant homeowners, and typically the cooks – everybody within the hospitality discipline will come out and bid you goodbye like I’ve by no means skilled earlier than.

This gesture is crammed with gratitude and heat, usually carried out with such enthusiasm that it turns into a jubilant, two-handed movement. What stood out most was its outstanding persistence—it continues till you’re fully out of view!

The Tohoku wave will most definitely draw you even nearer to this area. The wave looks like a surge of pleasure carried by the air, embodying appreciation, a heat farewell, an invite to return, and a deep respect for others. It’s an prolonged goodbye of tsunami proportions. You possibly can’t assist however really feel the jubilance and gratitude they’re supplying you with.  You possibly can’t assist however need to come again and expertise the Tohoku coast once more.

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